Saturday, September 5, 2015

Russian Icon Tour, Part 12 Novgorod

We were on the bus again at 9 am, and we stayed on the bus for a mighty long time. 


It took us over 4 hours to go 180 miles. Windy roads, rough roads, construction, you name it, we had it. Through forests and villages, straights and curves, we wound northeast to Novgorod. 


We arrived and ate another nice meal. 


Then we hit the Kremlin and toured the monastery church. (No photos inside)


We walked in a light rain through the Kremlin (it means "city center") before entering the Novgorod Museum. Arkady, our local Novgorodian guide, was very informative and energetic. 


NOTE: if you love icons and go to Russia, I would say this is the Ultimate site to visit. 


Take oxygen - you will need it!



After 2 hours of bliss, we left the museum by way of the gift shop. I bought this little brass icon of the XIXth century. 


The rain had stopped. We went back to the church for the first 35-40 minutes of evening Vespers, then slipped away to make sure we arrived in time for our dinner reservations. 


We walked across the river on an arched bridge to our pseudo-ship restaurant and a lovely dinner. 


Thus we didn't get to our nice, clean, modern, spacious hotel until 9 pm. 


Now it's time to sleep. 






Russian Icon Tour, Part 11 Pskov

Tonight I am reporting from our (small) hotel room in Pskov. 


It features a unique plumbing arrangement that saves faucets and pipe. 

Sink:


Bath:


They must have saved elsewhere on the plumbing too, because the water is quite brown. 

But I've gotten ahead of myself. 

We started today by leaving a very busy hotel buffet in St. Petersburg that ran out of food, plates and cups. 

We jumped onto a magic yellow bus and headed southward on a 4-hour journey. 


Those of us in the front seats engaged in brave "If I were driving this thing" advice, confident that our driver(s) wouldn't understand us and we wouldn't have to take the wheel of the bus. 


When we finally reached Pskov at 1:40 we had a great luncheon, including the first Borsht I've ever tasted - onion-free. 


Then we headed to the 12th Century Mirozhsky Monastery chapel with 80% of its original frescos surviving all these centuries!



And we peeked into the monks' church nearby. 


Later we went to the Kremlin (town center). And took a few artsy photos. 


In the midst of a rainstorm, we checked into our Soviet-era hotel. 


But crammed 11 into a room anyway, for a quick round of drinks before dinner, 


which was held in an underground "lair".


Which brings us back to me in room 513, writing up our day. 

Thanks for reading! 


Friday, September 4, 2015

Russian Icon Tour, Part 10 St. Petersburg

Tourist's Bedside Table scene:

No bus today. We walked everywhere!

First to the Russian Museum to see four rooms full of fabulous icons. 




Some folks took a tour of the non-icon portion of the museum. We used our free time to walk over to the Kazan Cathedral  and venerate the Lady of Kazan icon. 


Afterwards, we strolled around town a bit,


saw a lady feeding pigeons, got hungry,


and went to lunch. 


After lunch we took a boat ride around "St. Pete" with narration by Olga. 



With our final hours, some went to an excellent exhibit of impressionist art, while others rested or shopped. We were on our own for dinner. 


My feet ache! 




Thursday, September 3, 2015

Russian Icon Tour, Part 9 St. Petersburg

I'm a bit confused about today's exact sequence of events, because we have deviated from our plan 3-4 times. But my pictures are in order, so I'll post them and enter the names later. 

Leaving in the morning, after breakfast. 

(There was an optional walk to Kazan Cathedral earlier, but I didn't make it.)


Off we went in our coach to see Baroque architecture. This church was designed by a Frenchman. The pillars of the porches are solid granite and were erected before the building inside. 



Dazed tourist in St. Isaac's Church. Me. 


We took a break for lunch and I convinced a few people to try Jamie Oliver's Restaurant. It was great. 


A wonderful fish sampler platter with Rose for about $15. 


Another cathedral. Everything is done in mosaic tile. 


This time it's the Church of the Resurrection aka (Spilled Blood)


Next, we went over to an island in the river and walked through the Peter Paul Fortress and burial chapel of the Romanovs. 



And now back home to rest before we head to the theatre for a tourist-oriented "Russian Cultural Show". 
















Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Russian Icon Tour, Part 8 St. Petersburg


We climbed wearily off our overnight train at 8:30 this morning, and were greeted by smiling Olga, our local St. Petersburg guide. 


Due to some confusion over timing of tickets, we headed for breakfast, yawning, then straight on to the Hermitage Museum. 


With 4 million exhibit items and 400+ rooms, this must be the largest, busiest, and most gilded museum in the universe. 

Whether display room, staircase or chapel, there was gold everywhere!



Whew! 

( Note to self, if I ever get this rich, don't flaunt it so. )


Leaving this grandeur behind, we went for a simple luncheon at Restaurant 1913. 


Afterwards we checked into our hotel, marveled at the tiny rooms (what!) and took showers and naps. A few of us wandered about on our own, finding books, jewelry and icons for sale. 


Roaring Ferraris outside on the street successfully kept us from visualizing the small port founded by Peter the Great in 1703. 


After naps, laundry and a dinner in the hotel, most of us are heading for our beds. Others took a stroll down the busy and unhappily "aromatic" streets. 

This is Not a Quiet Neighborhood; the in-room notice book advises earplugs!